Most tourists travelling to Machu Picchu from Cusco would take the train direct to Aguas Calientes which takes about three and quarter hours. But no – not our adventurous crew . . . Instead we decided to take an alternative route – by minibus up and down mountainous roads with at least 3 million turns, ending up in the spa town of Santa Teresa about eight hours later. But of course with everything on our hippy happy tour, there were so many plus points. The views of the mountains and valleys with fast flowing crystal clear rivers were amazing. We may crow about our mountain scenery in New Zealand, but this was something out of this world. The other advantage of taking our alternative route was we were able to visit our second school – this time with younger kids aged from about three through to eight. We played games in the courtyard and then went into the classroom to distribute some gifts and supplies for the school. We asked the head-teacher what they really needed for next time, and to think big. Tactile stuff such as plasticine and play dough is important, as is some furniture – simple things like shelves and cupboards to store supplies. In other words stuff we just take for granted in our western society . . . One huge benefit of arriving in Santa Teresa travel worn, dirty and tired is you get to relax in some glorious natural hot springs. There are three pools in the complex – ranging from nice and warm to toasty hot, all with views of the mountains and valley. I was unfortunately spotted by an eagle-eyed pool attendant who ordered me to first have a shower in, what I discovered, was freezing cold water. I was obviously rated as someone who might get out of this requirement at the earliest opportunity and so she stayed and watched until I was almost blue. Man those hot springs felt good after that . . . Our travel from Santa Teresa to Machu Picchu the next morning was easy peasy. A short train ride (with our group sitting a little self consciously alone in a first class carriage followed by half of Peru crammed into three local cars behind), and then a 20 minute shuttle bus from the town of Aguas Calientes up the hill to one of the seven wonders of the world – the almighty Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu was built by the Incas in the fifteenth century and then abandoned about a century later at the time of the Spanish conquest. It is located in such a remote and inaccessible area (well it was before tourists came) that amazingly the Spaniards never came across it during their rapacious occupation. The history books will tell you that the American Hiram Bingham bought it to the world’s attention in 1911. However the site was always well known to the local people – in fact My Bingham only chanced upon it after being brought there by some local kids who had been using it as their playground. Again, never wanting to do things the easy way, our intrepid group decided to start the day by climbing Machu Picchu mountain which soars 650m above the ancient city. OMG was that a tough climb. Compared to New Zealand hill treks which tend to make use of switchbacks (and hence providing some welcome respite to catch your breath), this mountain walk just goes straight up in a series of steps which seem never-ending. For about two thirds of the climb I gamely kept up with my three fit (and younger I might add) companions: Michael of the long legs, Jenna our yogi will-o-the-whisp and Jeremy the fitness trainer – need I say more . . . I finally made some lame excuse, waited until they had disappeared around the next corner and then collapsed panting for what seemed like an hour but in fact was only five minutes. Yep that was a good lesson on the ego for me! 'It wasn’t the views from the top that made the climb worthwhile for me, but the half hour or so of silent meditation – after we had caught our breath of course. Imagine sitting on top of the world in your own silent cocoon, focusing on your breath and then finally opening your eyes and taking in the panorama before you. Its amazing how you can see colours and landscapes differently and in so much more detail . . . The afternoon was spent being escorted around the ancient Machu Picchu city by our guide Marita, and as usual her local perspective was invaluable. These Incans sure knew how to get a primo spot to build a city. If you had an Airbnb with these kind of views you could charge whatever you wanted . . . The only negative about the place (and this does seem a little petty) was the commercialisation – and that goes also for the local town of Aguas Calientes. Everything was at least double or triple the price of elsewhere in Peru and the bars and restaurants felt as if they had been designed specifically for rich tourists – it was hard to spot where the local people hung out.
And so with our return from Machu Picchu to Cusco, so ended our Peru Yogaporvida adventure. If I had to sum things up, it was a trip of connections. Connecting with the land, its people and culture and, of course, our travelling companions. It’s not often that I click so immediately with so many people. Jenna, Michael, Scott, Denise, Jeremy, Melvin, Tatiana and Marita – thank you for your company, your laughs, your help and your hippy yogi ways. It was never dull and there was always someone to talk to and share. I miss you all already . . . Namaste and hasta luego . . .
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Richard and JolandaJo and I have decided to give up our work, our house and our lives in Wellington NZ to see the world. Our big adventure started on April 6th 2017 . . . Archives
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